Abacela Celebrates More Than A Quarter Century of Innovation
Founded in 1995, this Umpqua Valley winery has been at the forefront of change, experimentation and growth in this central Oregon AVA ever since. A comprehensive and detailed overview of those years is posted on the winery website here so I won't attempt to do a better synopsis.
As with many longtime admirers, my attention was first captured by the commitment to Tempranillo, which sparked Earl and Hilda Jones to do the exhaustive science-based research that ultimately led them to plant their picture postcard vineyards in the hills outside of Roseburg. Until that time the California versions of Tempranillo had never really come close to the quality of Spanish Rioja and Ribera del Duero wines, and certainly no one anywhere in Oregon thought that the heart of the Umpqua valley was the place to plant that flag.
This weekend the winery celebrates 28 years since the first vines went into the ground. Along with their multiple versions of Tempranillo, Abacela has led the way with other single varietal wines – Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Albariño, Tannat, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Naçional and Graciano – and been among the first to make Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Dolcetto, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo in Oregon. It's an incomparable track record of consistent, determined, well-researched innovation; all the more remarkable as it was done by a single family, not a corporation or university.
In the summer of 2021 the torch was passed from the founders to their son Dr. Greg Jones, who'd grown up in the vineyards and established a most successful career as the leading authority worldwide on the impact of climate change on viticulture. His extensive work history and climatological research is well documented on his own website here.
I've had the pleasure of hearing Greg speak at numerous seminars and wine events over the years, and even collaborated with him a few years back at IPNC. I asked him to comment on his transition to Abacela CEO and his plans for the next quarter century.
Greg Jones: The transition has been going very well. Coming from academia, grading papers, dealing with inept administrators, now on to managing grapevines, wine, and great staff at Abacela has been a joy!"
PG: What is your immediate focus?
GJ: "I have mostly been trying to refresh and replace things within the operation. After 25+ years of producing great wines, many things from the website, our marketing approach, hospitality, vineyard management, etc. are all getting a freshening up. I find myself mostly being the maintenance man, helping our staff have the tools they need to produce great wines and represent the brand."
PG: I have very fond memories of visiting Abacela, taking the bumpy ride up the steep slopes to the top of the vineyard, and always being astonished at the sheer beauty of the place. How are you handling visitors these days?
GJ: "In terms of hospitality, we have gone to a mostly reservation-based system, remodeled our outdoor space to be able to seat more guests and be more welcoming and comfortable during the summer. We have expanded our Pizza Fridays to once a month during the winter and every Friday from May 1 to mid or late October, and added a music program every other Wednesday during the summer months (right up your alley!)."
PG: Given your exceptional background and knowledge of global climate change, how specifically do you see it impacting your estate vineyards?
GJ: "From a climate perspective, I feel that my father and I did a good job making the right choices on the variety-climate matching. We are in the sweet spot for what we currently grow, unlike many plantings that have mismatches between the climate and variety which makes small changes in climate a very big deal. However, we do know that climates will continue to change so we must be diligent going forward."
PG: Going forward doing what?
GJ: "We are planting some new vineyard area, about 15 acres that my father wanted to do over the years and now I am moving forward with it. It is a 2+ year process with the goal to plant more Tempranillo, Grenache and Albariño mostly, but with some small amounts of our key Portuguese varieties as well. We are of course looking at some newer clones, more drought resistant rootstock, and block structures that will facilitate greater ease and cost of management."
PG: Thank you Greg Jones! It's great to know that Abacela is going to continue setting the gold standard for innovation for many years to come.
Here are my notes on a selection of the current releases:
Abacela 2022 Albariño – Among Abacela's many pioneering achievements was the introduction of this classic Spanish white wine to the Pacific Northwest. This is a spicy, peppery, vivacious wine. It deftly stacks bright fruit flavors of apple, pear and white peach with skin flavors and crisp acids. There's also a finishing hint of salinity that spreads out through the end palate. A lovely white wine perfect for summer sipping. 1108 cases; 13.9%; $22 (Umpqua Valley) 92/100
Abacela 2022 Grenache Rosé – A pale copper hue, scents of rose petals and grapefruit, juicy mouthfilling citrus fruit and a slice of watermelon – what's not to like? It's dry and flavorful, compelling and dense enough to hold your interest on through the finish. Finished with a screwcap, this rosé may be enjoyed now and over the next two years. 1042 cases; 12.9%; $20 (Umpqua Valley) 91/100
Abacela 2020 Fiesta Tempranillo – This lovely wine pushes its berry, plum and cherry fruit front and center, backed with firm tannins and a sprinkling of dried herbs. It is the most affordable bottle among the winery's portfolio of four different Tempranillos, with a screwcap for convenience should you take this along on a picnic. Jamón and Manchego? Some crusty bread. You bet – go for it! 1930 cases; 13.9%; $27 (Umpqua Valley) 90/100
Abacela 2018 South East Block Reserve Tempranillo – This block is among the oldest in the vineyard. The wine is the classic color of bulls blood, a dense, dark, deep wine with red currant, black cherry, black olive and savory herbs all in the mix. No new oak was used; the barrels were 30% American oak and the rest French. Green tobacco highlights come up as the wine breathes. This wine is made for steaks (no surprise there). 170 cases; 14.4%; $58 (Umpqua Valley) 92/100
Abacela 2018 South Face Block Reserve Syrah – This makes the case for Syrah from this part of Oregon. It's focused on savory, brambly flavors of marionberry, blackberry and herbs de Provence. It's well-balanced, sleek and compact, finishing with a streak of vanilla. Good now but better with aggressive aeration. 306 cases; 14.9%; $48 (Umpqua Valley) 92/100
Abacela 2018 East Hill Block Reserve Malbec – Intensely aromatic, dark to the point of blackness, this is as potent as any Malbec I've ever had from this hemisphere (hello Argentina!). Concentrated flavors bring a concert of purple fruits, smoky tannins, clean earth, tobacco and espresso. Still young (2018 is the current vintage) it offers a lot of palate bang for the wallet bucks. Decant, aerate or cellar another half decade or longer. 236 cases; 14.1%; $46 (Umpqua Valley) 94/100
Photo credit: Andrea Johnson Photography
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The wines I review have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups. Only reviews for recommended wines are published, with links to winery websites to facilitate DTC sales. Additional exposure comes via my frequent posts on Substack, Post Alley, Instagram and several Facebook wine chat groups. I encourage you to subscribe to my Substack which is free and has an abundance of material not found on this website.
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