Just Out: The Long-Awaited 2021 Wines From Brick House and Trisaetum
It's no secret that I deeply admire many of the wines from the Ribbon Ridge AVA. As it happens, two of my longtime favorite producers are right across the street from each other at the apex of the ridge.
Doug Tunnell founded Brick House in 1989 after a storied career as a network news correspondent. As he recalled in a recent interview, his mother grew up on a farm near Carlton and had a number of friends living in the area. "When she learned of my interest in purchasing a place suitable for growing grapes, she put the word out among some of those friends, and one of them, a guy who dabbled in real estate sales, called her in the fall of 1989. 'I hear Doug’s back in town on a home leave,' he said. 'He oughtta go look at this farm on Lewis Rogers Lane.' Which I did. It had Willakenzie soil (one of the three recommended soil types for wine grapes back in the day); 12 acres of filberts, a decrepit fruit orchard, 8 acres of pasture and this weird old brick house. It was early fall, very dry and warm, just as I remembered Yamhill county from my days as a kid visiting Granma. I was sold on the Lewis Rogers Lane piece before we reached the end of the drive off the county road."
It was some years later (2005) that Trisaetum's James Frey "heard about a hazelnut farm situated on Ribbon Ridge between Beaux Frères, Patricia Green and Brick House that was going to go on the market. We had just planted our home site in the Coast Range and were looking for a second vineyard site to eventually build our winery. Based on how much I loved the wines coming from Ribbon Ridge in the early 2000s, I made an offer on the property sight unseen before it hit the market. One of the best decisions I’ve ever made."
The moral of these stories seems to be when opportunity knocks you reach for the checkbook and don't ask questions!
I've tracked wines from both of these estates consistently from their first few vintages, and been constantly impressed with their development. Trisaetum initially focused on Riesling and Pinot Noir at its estates, which now include a bit of Chardonnay. For several vintages the Freys provided space for Burgundy's Domaine Louis Jadot to make wines while their Résonance winery was being built. Jadot's lead winemaker Jacques Lardière was among those who mentored James Frey as he moved from a career in photography into winemaking. Now, as Trisaetum approaches its 20th anniversary, Frey Family Wines has expanded to include the brands 18401 Cellars (a Bordeaux blend from Walla Walla grapes) and Pashey (méthode Champenoise sparkling wines); all produced at the winery on Ribbon Ridge.
At Brick House the goal from the start, as noted on the website, was "to foreswear the range of herbicides and other powerful chemicals that were common in Oregon’s vineyards at the time." At first the entire property was certified for organic production, and later for Biodynamic grape-growing. Here the focus is on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay. In the reviews below you will also see a sensational rosé has been produced.
"We take our role as stewards of this plot of land seriously" the winery website explains, "intervening in Mother Nature’s system only occasionally and with a thoughtful, gentle hand. Over the years we have come to understand that when you chose a farm, you chose humility. It is a way of life with profound rewards." For a map of the Brick House property and an insightful explanation of their commitment to the land they farm, look here.
To purchase the following Brick House wines go here.
Brick House 2022 Intentional Rosé of Pinot Noir
This is only the third intentional (non saignée) rosé ever made at Brick House I am told. It comes from young vines that were replanted after phylloxera began taking out the older Pinot. This was sourced from a five year old Pommard block. Don't let the light color fool you, this is a big, flavorful, fruit-powered rosé, rich with sweet bubblegum, peach, papaya and tropical fruit flavors. 12%; $30 (Ribbon Ridge) 92/100
Brick House 2021 Chardonnay
This is the sort of gem you'd hope to find by the glass at your favorite bistro. Lovely aromatics to begin, then a mid-palate that's loaded with stone fruits, grapefruit and mineral highlights. All through the finish it's got the extra depth and texture that comes with biodynamic farming. 12.5%; $28 (Ribbon Ridge) 91/100
Brick House 2021 Cascadia Chardonnay
This is layered elegantly, with citrus flesh and rind, apple skin, pear and, well, it just keeps on going. The top Chardonnay from Brick House, it's a barrel selection with just enough exposure to new (or newish) wood to put a sheen of brioche on it. Note that the website still lists the 2020 but this is due out soon. 12.5%; $48 (Ribbon Ridge) 93/100
Brick House 2021 Select Pinot Noir
This is high-toned, with sharply-defined raspberry/cherry fruit. Those cherry candy flavors fill the mid-palate, leading into astringent, earthy tannins. As it breathes open you'll find hibiscus, chamomile, lemon verbena and a slew of botanical highlights in a compelling finish. 12.5%; $42 (Ribbon Ridge) 92/100
Brick House 2021 Les Dijonnais Pinot Noir
From vines a quarter century old, this young Pinot perfectly expresses the glorious diversity of biodynamic wines. Wild, feral, gamey, unruly flavors compound across the palate, keeping you riveted through the lingering finish. Peppery red berry fruits, juicy acids and underlying wet stone flavors balance it out. Give it plenty of aeration and/or decanting for maximum enjoyment. 13%; $68 (Ribbon Ridge) 93/100
Brick House 2021 Evelyn's Pinot Noir
A barrel selection, this has sweet fruit flavors of blueberry jam, with some pie-like pastry highlights trailing. The tannins bring light astringency, and the dynamic, biodynamic textures keep the finish detailed and long. 13%; $88 (Ribbon Ridge) 94/100
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To purchase the following Trisaetum wines go here.
Trisaetum 2021 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
This estate-grown barrel selection can be identified by its brown label. Grapes from all three estate vineyards are in the blend, crafting a well-modulated, elegant wine that is a perfect expression of the grape. Flavors mix berries and plums, a dash of chocolate and a dusting of brown spices. It's a lovely bottle and a fine leader for the whole Trisaetum 2021 lineup. 2500 cases; 13.3%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Trisaetum 2021 Wichmann Dundee Pinot Noir
Often the lowest alcohol wine in the portfolio, this new vintage adds a tart tang to snappy cranberry/strawberry fruit. It's light and well balanced, fermented with half whole clusters, and aged in one quarter new oak, finishing with a gentle hint of milk chocolate. 325 cases; 13.1%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 91/100
Trisaetum 2021 Ribbon Ridge Estate Pinot Noir
Full, firm and forceful, this is a sturdy, solid, almost blocky vintage for this estate selection. Black cherry dusted with cocoa gives the fruit a chocolatey note, and the finish resonates with a saline note derived from the high-quartz marine sediment of the AVA. 560 cases; 13.7% $60 (Ribbon Ridge) 93/100
Trisaetum 2021 Coast Range Estate Pinot Noir
Seductively aromatic, this teases with scents of sandalwood and Asian spices, then leads down a delicious trail of feathery red fruits and delicately-framed tannins. It's an elegant symphony of flavors, whose delicate touch belies its staying power. 305 cases; 13.3%; $60 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100
Trisaetum 2021 Estates Reserve Pinot Noir
Along with the overall consistent elegance of these 2021s, it's worth mentioning that the back labels of James Frey's wines are among the most clear and informative of any I've ever seen. Here cascading flavors of strawberry, watermelon, raspberry and citrus roll into tannins tasting of breakfast tea. The finish resonates like the fading notes of a symphony. 255 cases; 13.3%; $80 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Trisaetum 2021 Family Reserve MMXXI Pinot Noir
This ultra reserve is two thirds whole cluster fermented, aged in 30% new oak and blended from "select portions of barrels" rather than entire barrels. So in a nutshell it's a painter's wine, and James Frey, along with his winemaking skills, is a talented painter. This is instantly delicious, with forward and open fruit flavors of blackberries and red cherries. Details of saline and dried seaweed emerge to accent the finish, and there's a stony austerity to the tannins. All in all this wine jumps through a lot of really interesting hoops. Give it ample breathing time or you won't get the whole show. 112 cases; 13.7%; $100 (Willamette Valley) 95/100
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The wines I review have been tasted over many hours and days in peer groups. Only reviews for recommended wines are published, with links to winery websites to facilitate DTC sales. Additional exposure comes via my frequent posts on Substack, Post Alley, Instagram and several Facebook wine chat groups. I encourage you to subscribe to my free Substack pages.
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