Paul Gregutt

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“Now:  here is your glass and here is mine. In the name of the grape’s holy blood I welcome you to our home. Let us drink… Forgive me that I gave you no choice. For, as I said, such is the way of a sinner.”   – Angelo Pellegrini “Wine and the Good Life” (1965) 

 

 

Welcome!

PaulGregutt.com is an ongoing, objectively critical guide to Northwest wines and wineries. I do not work for wineries and I do not sell wine. The site is being simplified and updated. Please excuse the construction mess! New entries will appear exclusively on the front page as Blog, Current Feature and Recent Feature. These will include important events (such as book signings) and new tasting notes. 

 

Most Recent Blogs

Reader Comments re: 100 Point Scale
Thursday, 26 June 2008

My thanks to the many readers of this blog who weighed in with very thoughtful responses to my post about my 100-point scale. It is particularly satisfying for any author to be able to engage with his or her audience in this way. (Hopefully, some day soon, I will have the bandwidth to make this site completely interactive.) Meanwhile, here are some excerpts from what you had to say.


From Keith W: 

 

When your book was released I had it sent to me in Singapore where I live. Great book. I love the vineyard descriptions. The winery descriptions, including beyond-the-data stories and even some dirt!  Dividing them up into the different categories was just okay because it was hard to find the wineries just by flipping through the book. 


The 100-point system didn't work for me. In part because even if a winery has only 3 vintages out the door, if it's great wine, I want to try it. Your rankings favor the established. I read what you meant by the numbers, and I referred back to your scale and explanation a few times, but I don't think it helped to steer me to one winery over another. I ended up ignoring the numbers and just read the descriptions and then cross-referenced recommended grapes or wines of that winery with your lists in the front.

For the next edition, I'd love to see more (great) wineries included. Beefed up descriptions of some of the newer ones in your last chapters. Eliminate the 100 point system altogether. And include photos!

 

From Robert D: 

 

Rename your 100 point system to a “winery scorecard”, it's semantics but it allows for your process of rating wineries not wines to continue.  I, for one, honestly didn’t care for it in the beginning but I came to really appreciate it.  I could take your review and compare it to how a felt about the winery and their wines.  Is this winery finding its way or a winery which demands high quality (created by acumen winemakers, authenticated by excellent reviews and wine high ratings)?
 
I appreciate spending (a lot or a little) my money on wines where I get the experience and your rating helps facilitate that.

 

From Steve B:  

 

Interesting comments on the blog about the 100-point system you used in the book. I respect you for giving a lot of space to the system's critic from A Certain Winery. He/she makes several excellent, uh, points. But why even bother with a 100-point system at all, either the Parker/Spectator system or your revised rating? Are scores truly informative and useful for

wine consumers?

 

Increasingly, I believe no, they aren't at all. So let's get rid of them altogether. Scores have become a default system for shoppers to assess a wine's quality, because the real problem is that wine descriptions are practically useless. The real problem, then, is with us, the wine writers. I can't blame a wine consumer for using a score to make a buying decision when a wine critics review talks about "pillowy tannins" or "spice box overtones that drape smoothly over the open-textured blackberry and tar flavors" or "cola-sassafras flavors riding over a core of dark cherry, mineral and pebble notes," to quote from three recent Spectator descriptions. Will I like this wine and what foods will it go best with? is what a wine consumer wants to know. We need to leave the pillowy tannins on the bed of wretched prose. 

 

Another other problem is wine retailers who insist on using scores to sell wine. "90 points for 10 bucks!" sounds like a great deal, of course, except that implying a wine that costs $10 and scored 90 points is better than a wine that costs 10x as much and scored the same isn't just ludicrous, it's misleading and shameful. Better wine writing is the answer. All of us who write about wine ought to answer that call.

 

Read more...
 
What I'm Tasting - Week of June 30, 2008
Thursday, 26 June 2008
I sometimes hesitate to post tasting notes on wines that are difficult or impossible to find, or priced well above what most folks like to pay. But in truth, my newspaper columns are full of value wines, and it seems to me that the superstar wines of Washington should not be penalized for their success. Continuing my postings of reviews of the best of the best, here are notes (along with previews of unreleased wines) from my tasting this spring at Quilceda Creek.
 
Finished wines:

 

Quilceda Creek 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon 

Cuvée:  97CS/3M

Still young, chewy and textural, this stands as a classic Washington 2005 red – lusciously laden with mixed red and black berries, generous and deep; dense and jammy. The mixed berries, red licorice, cherries, layers of butterscotch, toffee and caramel are beautifully integrated and linger seductively into the finish. It has some initial alcoholic heat, but the flavors compensate and go on and on. The aromas include a pretty floral element, but this is a wine that must be cellared another five or more years before it even begins to pull itself together. If you must pop the cork before then, decant it for at least six hours and more if possible before drinking.

 

Quilceda Creek 2005 Galitzine Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Fall ’08 release

This is pure Cabernet from the estate vineyard (this was its 5th leaf) on Red Mountain. It is tight, textural, chewy and deep; a mix of dense cherry fruit and loaded with brandy/bourbon barrel flavors. It’s a bit hot and tannic, and on first opening it seems as if it needs time to pull itself together. The relatively forward character of the young vines comes through; the flavors are strawberry jam rather than darker fruits, and they spread across the palate, with just a suggestion of Red Mountain rock coming in at the finish.

 

Quilceda Creek 2005 Merlot

Cuvée:  89.5M/10.5CF

The Merlot grapes are from the 1998 Champoux block; the Franc is from Red Mountain’s Tapteil vineyard. Rich and chocolatey, this dense and detailed wine is loaded with brambly fruit, ripe cherry and baking chocolate. It’s dotted with fine-grained, coffee-streaked tannins, and finishes with highlights of butterscotch and malted milk candies. As with all the 2005 Quilceda’s, this is still young and tight. It is dominated by the barrel flavors that only slowly meld into the massive fruit with extensive breathing time (36 hours after being opened the wine was still improving). The only real indication that it’s Merlot and not Cabernet is the way it spreads across the palate; it’s got the breadth that Washington Cab sometimes lacks.

 

Quilceda Creek 2005 Red Wine

Cuvée 84CS/9CF/7M

Fall ’08 release

Still very youthful, sappy, with the oak quite prominent right now. But calling it Quilceda lite does not begin to do it justice. This is a deeply-fruited, round and resonant wine which would be almost any other winery’s prestige bottling. For Quilceda Creek, it is the second label. In the warm and very ripe 2005 vintage, it has not a trace of green character, and is nicely textured with good length and streaks of tea and tobacco running through the finish.

 

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Where I'll Be Next...
Thursday, 26 June 2008

Merlove, a new documentary film by Rudy McClain, premieres at Copia this week (sold out). A future Copia screening is scheduled for September 5th.

 

 The filmmakers shot a lot of footage in Washington state, and have posted an excellent blog <http://merlove.blogspot.com/> with stories and photos from their visits to Washington wineries. 

 

Most exciting to me is that my song ("I Wanna Drink It Today") will be featured in the film credits. Special thanks to Rob Newsom for bringing the tune to their attention (and for playing killer dobro on the original track).

 

Here's what Rudy's blog had to say:  "We even left with the perfect song to end Merlove with. The name of the song is I Wanna Drink It Today and it is by Paul Gregutt, one of Rob’s good friends. Paul Gregutt is the author of “Insider’s Guide to Washington Wines,” [sic] he is a columnist for The Seattle Times Newspapers, and he is also a contributing editor to The Wine Enthusiast."

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The Washington Wines Festival

July 11 -12

 

This new festival benefits a new addition to Paul Newman's Hole in the Wall Camp foundation. Major wineries, entertainers and other celebrities will be participating. The ticket price is steep, but the event is far more than just another auction. For complete details, visit <www.washingtonwinesfestival.com/>

 

The 2008 Wine Weekend to benefit Camp Korey and Hole in the Wall Camps will be held July 11 & 12, 2008 at the future site of Camp Korey at Carnation Farm (east of Seattle) and will raise funds to ensure children with serious illnesses have a place to play and “just be kids.” I urge you to attend, and help me to make this event a great success.

 

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Visiting Waitsburg
Sunday, 16 March 2008

Now Offering Custom Wine Tastings In Waitsburg:  As many of you know, about three years ago Mrs. G and I purchased a run-down (to put it kindly), 130+ year-old cottage on the edge of Waitsburg. Waitsburg (town motto:  One of a Kind) was unknown to us until we motored up Highway 12 one sunny day to check out the Whoopemup Café, which had just opened.

Waitsburg is just 18 miles (about 20 minutes) out of Walla Walla, but it's another world. Don't get me wrong, I love Walla Walla. That's why we live in Waitsburg. We want access to all that W2 has to offer. But we can't duplicate the Waitsburg experience there. It's like going back in time.

In order to bring more of you up to Waitsburg, to visit its restaurants, its brewpub, its shops and parks, I am now offering the opportunity for your group to schedule a personalized wine tasting, hosted by me and my good friend Jim German, at his jimgermanbar.

Jimgermanbar, which opened in Waitsburg last summer, has quickly become a much-loved institution in town. A daily entree or two from chef Tall Dave is always on the menu, along with tapas-style plates. Jim German is the quintessential host and bartender, and this is the place he has dreamed about creating all of his life. 

This summer, jgb has opened 'Heaven' – a private room adjacent to the bar that may be booked for parties of up to 40 people. Jim and I are also collaborating on offering guided, custom wine tastings for groups of eight or more. You pick the topic, I'll pick the wines, and I will guide you through a fun, entertaining and informative presentation. Jim will co-host, and tapas-style plates of your choosing will accompany the wines. Prices depend upon the food and wines chosen, and the number of people in your group. Contact me ( This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it ) for further details. 

Updates...

Mrs. G and I are still renovating the cottage across the street from our own home, designing it for short-term rentals. It has two bedrooms, full kitchen, a sleeper sofa for a third couple and is just a three block walk to downtown Waitsburg. It is still too soon to take specific bookings - we are in the midst of renovations. I'll keep you posted.

 

Last but not least... we have purchased a century-old building on Main Street in Waitsburg, and we are looking for a prime-time tenant or tenants. The building needs renovation, which we would like to do as a partnership with the right individual(s). The location is exceptional, the town is undergoing a true renaissance, and this is a great opportunity for someone with the right ideas and energy. Distillery? Wine shop? Winery and tasting room? Winery co-op? Upscale grocery? Bakery? B&B? Come visit and we'll give you the grand tour and kick some ideas around.

 

See you in Waitsburg!

 

Read more...
 

Current Feature

Time To Dump My 100 Point System?
Thursday, 22 May 2008

In conceiving and writing my book, "Washington Wines & Wineries – The Essential Guide", I took on a number of challenges. Perhaps the most quixotic was my decision – against the counsel of several knowledgeable industry veterans who read early drafts – to attempt to re-invent the 100 point scale. My hope was that a careful explanation of how and why I was doing this would spark some wider re-assessment of the widely-used scale. Here's what I wrote:

"Each winery profiled in these pages has been awarded an overall ranking based on a 100-point scale. Let’s be clear – this is not the standard 100-point scale. The scale I propose has been designed to correct the many deficiencies of that simplistic rating of specific wines.

 

This practice of promoting wine, a multi-faceted, subjective sensory experience, simply by broadcasting numbers has gradually devalued the numbers while shrinking the original 100-point scale. At first blush, such a rating system sounds generous, allowing room for a lot of subtlety in the grading curve. But in actual practice it’s not a hundred point scale at all, nor even close.

 

It has become a ten point scale. Wines rated under 85 are ignored completely. Wines rated 85 to 89 must be marketed as value wines – those numbers only work for wines priced at the low end of the scale. If your wine is going to sell for $15 or more, it must hit 90 points at least. One prominent retailer even makes a point of selling (at discount) wines that have scored the “dreaded” 89. Once a wine moves up the ladder from there, it becomes increasingly rare and expensive. As a result, wines scoring 95 or above are virtually unobtainable for the average consumer. 

 

In this book, the perfect score of 100 points is comprised of four components. The first three components award points for style, consistency and value. Each has a potential (e.g. perfect) score of 30. The final points (up to 10) are awarded for the contribution being made by the individual winery to the development and improvement of the Washington wine industry. This can include such things as vineyard development, experimentation with new varietals, marketing and promotional excellence, number of medals and high-scoring wines, even unusually attractive packaging. So this 100-point system is spread out over much broader, and more meaningful territory. 

 

The most important point I want to make is that every winery included in this book has made the cut. These are all well above average. Every score is a good score!"

 

How successful has this been? It is too soon to tell. Comments from readers and reviewers have been largely positive. Some have embraced my scoring; others have simply accepted it and moved on to the book's other assets. But within the ranks of the industry itself – wineries and distributors in particular – there has been an awkward silence. 

 

There is little doubt that this book's sales have been seriously impacted by 1) the decision not to include 3/4 of this state's wineries and 2) the scoring system itself. One winery veteran, after some prompting, took the trouble to explain why his winery wouldn't sell or promote the book, even though I had given them one my highest scores.

 

"I was surprised and nearly incredulous that a person who has bemoaned the 100- point rating system (March 1, 2007) created yet another 100-point scale for judging the wineries," this person wrote. "I applaud that you at least published the criteria for assigning the ratings, and that two of the four categories are somewhat objective (Consistency and Value). The lack of local raves may be a result, however, of the ‘insider’ knowledge that we in the business have regarding Washington wineries."

 

"I know many do not agree with your scores. And there is good reason for this. At [our winery], we had eagerly anticipated promoting the book, possibly giving it as a ‘thank you’ to our wine club members. But your ratings make it difficult for us to do that. Our problem with promoting your book is that, despite the wonderful written praise, we’d spend all our time explaining our B+ grade!  Not to mention trying to explain why wineries much newer that we, with much higher priced wines that don’t rate any better, received higher scores on Consistency and Value."

 

" If you choose to do a revision," the writer concludes, "I suggest that you revisit your 'de-tuning' of the scale, despite your totally laudable intentions, so as to more accurately reflect the world-class stature of the wineries you so graciously praise. I believe that if you do so, we’ll all come crashing in upon you in a huge wave of support."

 

So..... I cannot argue with this line of reasoning. In fact, I applaud the honesty and integrity of the writer. That said, I still believe that my attempt at renovating the 100 point scale was worth a try, though no author can be happy at hurting his own book sales. Will subsequent revisions of the book retain this ratings system? If it were to be modified, or dropped altogether, would more wineries "come crashing in upon me in a huge wave of support"? These are the questions I pose to you. Please send me your thoughts and we'll wrestle with this one together.

 

– PaulG

Read more...
 

Recent Feature Stories

My Top 100 Washington Wines of 2007

Once again at the end of the year, I put together a highly personal list of the year’s Top 100 Washington wines.

It's important to understand how this list was compiled, so as not to misinterpret the rankings.

There are now over 530 bonded wineries in the state. If they average just 10 wines annually (some less, some more) that’s over 5000 wines. Do I taste them all? In my dreams! But I do taste a significant percentage, and that, along with frequent visits to wineries and vineyards, numerous conversations and tastings with the winemakers themselves, and a depth of reference tastings reaching back a quarter century, all enter into this ranking.

Many of the elite Washington wineries sell most of their wines to mailing list customers, select restaurants and wine shops. It is important to recognize them – even if they are expensive and rare – because these are building a quality reputation for Washington state, which I believe to be the most important emerging wine region in the New World.

Included also are some widely-available, inexpensive wines – those which offer exceptional flavor and value. These every day bottles evangelize for the affordability of Washington wines.

I try to list just one wine per winery, although many of these producers make a full lineup of outstanding wines. My aim is to be inclusive. Even so, barely 20% of the wineries in the state will make this list. The competition, needless to say, gets tougher every year.

This ranking is not done strictly by the numbers, although these are all wines that score very well on the 100-point scale. I believe that consistency year-to-year, overall style and quality, and relative value (to comparable wines) are equally important guidelines.

Congratulations to everyone whose work is recognized below. I would like to thank the Washington Wine Commission and the Walla Walla Wine Alliance for their invaluable assistance in orchestrating many tastings on my behalf. With them, I raise a glass and salute the Top 100!

 

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